A worrying trend in the forum............

Thanks for all your entries to my little competition. After much consideration Kieran and I took the rattle to our friendy local garage. He listened, took it for a drive then looked underneath. He was interested in(but not overley enthusiastic about) my welding on the exhaust bracket at the side of the gearbox then announced that it sounded more like "something" inside the exhaust pipe. I immediatley blamed Kieran who was happy not to get a bill. So Lu and Tweedy get the prize, Tom I will sort you out in September !!!

something inside the exhust?

A friend of mine had a loose baffle in her center box (!!) which rattle a lot, esp at certain speeds (resonant frequency stuff)

Solved it by giving the box a queeze which trapped the loose baffle and cured the rattle!!

It did take trying to find it with a stethascope though, if it's still rattleing in september, will have a listen with mine!

I came very close once to dropping my gearbox out of a 200Tdi with suspected layshaft problems, only to find at the 11th hour that the baffles in the centre box had dropped apart!!!!!

Ahoy there people.Have just had an encounter with a blown wheel bearing at 60 mph,i dont recomend it to anyone!!!! car behind got a supprise and so did the car on the other side of the road when i veered onto there side
Had to force the steering wheel to the left slam on the HAZARDS and the brakes and ended up coming to a grinding halt half in the hedge on the right side of the road
Then the wate for the recovery wagon 2hrs later got back home
Now the exciting job of re-newing all wheel bearings :suspect: good job the landy mag i got shows how its done picture by picture because ive never done it before,ho hum its all fun
Apart from that how is everyone have'nt been on for a while,got a lot of posts to catch up on

batfink wrote:

Ahoy there people.Have just had an encounter with a blown wheel bearing at 60 mph

Eeeep! Glad you landed in the hedge rather than an oncoming lorry.

Guess you'll not be coming for a bit of wading in Lincolnshire this weekend, then?

We're supposed to be seeing Mike at the Griffin Engineering stand about tuning the Dastek that was fitted on Monday... the one that we need to take out in the morning because the engine's lost its low end power.

what' a dastek?????

batfink wrote:

what' a dastek?????

http://www.dastek.co.uk/

ECU piggybacks.

Hi everyone

We were feeling a bit left out of this strand, so we broke our passenger door!

This may seem a little trival compared to head gaskets, wheel bearings etc, but it has been a nightmare! When we bought the Disco, the passenger handle was broken, but the door could be opened easily from the inside etc. So 9p.m. the night before Manby, Tweedie decided to replace it with one off the Rangie (which he had cleaned up - three layers of paint!! etc.). It fitted perfectly and locked with the central locking, however it wouldn't unlock after that! Several hours later in the dark and rain (Tweedie's favourite car repair conditions!), we gave up. Then tried again the next morining. We had to go to Manby in the Peugeot in the end (how rude!! ), because it was unsafe to travel if the passenger (i.e. me!) couldn't get out if I needed to!

So we bought a new mechanism at Manby and fitted it - exactly the same problem!! Both mechanisms work fine! Eventually after taking the door to pieces twice and considering buying a new door as an easier option, it's fixed!! It was something to do with a tensioner being too tight!!

So we are very relieved and can now get on with fitting the fun bits for the rally like stickers and our new Nato towing hitch, which is ace!

Sorry for the essay.

From "Relieved in Cheshire" :bom:

Finally!

2.5D n/a Engine all back together, and sounding sooooooooooo sweet!

But, overheating?

new head & head gasket, hoses checked, sender new-correct one, temp gauge-reading correct, water pump working, radiator new-correct one, expansion bottle new-correct one, thermostat new-correct one, heating matrix checked, flow of water checked, with no thermostat checked. :?: :?: :?: :?: :?: :?: :?: :?: :?: :?:

Viscous unit on fan faulty? not much more it can be really?

I'm feeling a bit left out here, the only couple of bits on mine that have gone wrong fixed themselves! although one set of my flashy lights at the front apepars to havea loose connection, but can't erally compete!! guess i've done it now, just wait for something mega now

See the wine/beer/meths are starting to kick in Steve, judging by the spelling in your last post. Go for it mate!

CarpeDiem - obviously you had the head skimmed ... didn't you???? Like 'theshortwayround', there can't be anything else surely?

Hi,

It's a brand new head and gasket etc.

Cheers

Hic

I wish, sadly not, we're both on call tonight, so no drinking!
Just that sometimes my spelling very bad!

Hello Mark

Just an idea ... if it's not got an air lock in it and you've physically checked the water is flowing round by feeling the outlet and inlet to the water pump and at the top / bottom of the radiator, and it's all feels hot....have you considered checking your fuel mixture? - a lean fuel mixture will make it run hot.

They used to do this when I worked on the buses to save fuel, but in the height of summer, they all used to overheat!!!

Tweedie :bom:

yeah, my money would be on an air-lock.
If the temp sender is on the engine (rather than the rad) and it goes up quickly, either the pump's knackered or there's air in the works (or no water...).
Have seen this with Rovers, Citroens and Vauxhalls that have just had the rad replaced - why do some manufacturers want to put the water pump at the top?

If the temp goes up slowly, could be lean (fuel pressure reg, injector, fuel filter), diverter thermostat, coolant blockage, or even problems with oil circulation.
With the water filler cap removed, check if squishing the bottom rad pipes and then the top rad pipes have the same effect on water level and noise. If not, it's probably only air.

Have you checked the oil for maionaisse/water? Have a car on the driveway that used to overheat after a gasket change because one of the waterways wasn't aligned correctly and an oil/water emulsion clogged the cooling system.

Mark,

When you say she's overheating, do you mean running hot or boiling??

Two things spring to mind...

1. Are any of the water capillaries blocked in the block? If they are water will still merily pump around the rest of the engine but one pot may get significantly hotter than the others... A long shot I know. Perhaps get a cheap infra-red thermometer/heat gun thingy from machine mart or somewhere and look or hot spots!
2. You said the temp guage is reading correct. Apart from the new sender unit, how do you know? I have known old guages drop out of spec before.

Apart from that, my money is on the fuelling or the electrics.

Try also running a new wire from the temp sender unit direct to the guage and also clean the earth terminals from the engine to the chassis.

Hello all,

Many thanks for your replies.

Just come back from the garage;

On tick-over reads normal, give her something to do, straight into red. Running so hot, you can't touch the rad/hoses etc.

The engine sounds so sweet. So doubtful fuel, and oil is good. The correct thermostat/sender are in, and have been checked and are working. Guage working. Water pump seems to pump water in right direction. Hoses getting hot, and water seems to be flowing.

New rad coming out to be thoroughly checked over, then water pump to ensure all fins are ok. If not, then, the head will have to come off, gasket/ports/capillaries etc checked. It's a new head (defender type, unable to get a series 111 one), so the 2.5D block is different to the head.

We'll see! thanks again, Mark

Mark,
Im no expert on the finite differences between engines, but Id be pretty certain a 2.25D and Defender 2.5NA arent exactly the same...

Try giving Blanchards a call - 01430 872 765 - they deal a lot with ex military stuff and have loads of spares. Im sure they'll be able to sort you out the correct head.

Fail in that, Id be scouring ebay for an engine or donar vehicle...

Hi Jon,

Both the block and head are 2.5D n/a.

The previous owner, had the whole engine upgraded from a 2.25D, about 7yrs ago.

Cheers, Mark

Mark,
As far as I know they never made a SIII 2.5NA Diesel engine??? Did they?

Therefore the 2.5 NA head you have must be for the 2.5NA Defender and thus the right head???

Assuming block and head are OK and match, is the gasket on the right way up and round? From memory there should be a part of the head gasket sticking out from between the block and head at the back of the engine on the left hand side (steering wheel corner if you where stood at the front of the engine looking into the engine bay). The bit sticking out is the gasket thickness identifier (1,2 or 3 holes punched in it).

If this identifier is visible on any other corner then the gasket will be blocking the water jacket... and that'll be your problem.

Hi Jon,

Yes, your right, series 111 didn't have a 2.5D N/A.

Mine has, because of the last owner.

Apparently, if you buy the new 2.5D head, although they fit, you have to find the right gasket, as they is a difference between the new ones and the original heads.

I just want it back!

Cheers, mark

Defo sounds like the wrong gasket restricting water flow Mark.

hello,
i can sort of join in again on this thread, i have just driven home from work to find everyone flashing at me from behind so i got out o find that i have no rear lights and one of the front side lights has stopped working aswell and the rear fog doesnt work and the hazards dont work, woud it be worth re wiring the electrics?

cheers kieran

kieran wrote:

hello,
i can sort of join in again on this thread, i have just driven home from work to find everyone flashing at me from behind so i got out o find that i have no rear lights and one of the front side lights has stopped working aswell and the rear fog doesnt work and the hazards dont work, woud it be worth re wiring the electrics?
cheers kieran

Do indicators and brake lights work? Does the indicator stalk make any difference to which front light works?

Tail lights and hazards are both connected via the indicator switch wiring (for parking lights) in most cars - even if they don't have the parking light switch installed. If you've been working under the dashboard, check the connections near the indicator switch.

kieran wrote:

hello,
i can sort of join in again on this thread, i have just driven home from work to find everyone flashing at me from behind so i got out o find that i have no rear lights and one of the front side lights has stopped working aswell and the rear fog doesnt work and the hazards dont work, woud it be worth re wiring the electrics?

cheers kieran

Kieran,
Given your smoking dashboard and now lights out at the back - I suggest you cut your losses and and make a start on re-wiring the lot. Or at least, start fault finding and replace all the knackered wire... otherwise take a shed load of wire and fuses with you in September!!!