pinky

Quote :

the oil leak has always been there it drips occasionally out of the transmission

just thought i would read through the forum as im bored stif being the only person in product design class and the teacher is away, we even identified the problem a long time before

its happend again mysterious oil or diesel leak from i think the front of engine, again
the problem is im not sure what i did last time to fix it ill put a pic up when daylight comes again

kieran

I'm ready! :cyclops:

Why do owners worry about oil leeks? Best form of chassis protection known to man!

i dont particuarily worry about the oil leaks, you cant stop them

but i think its diesel and that costs lots of my pocket money so gorden brown can aimlessly give it away

cheers mark i will have a detailed look in the morning and take pictures

cheers kieran

here are the pictures, sorry about the delay in posting them,

they speak for them selves....






any sugestions?
andybloke, i will be trying out your idea in the morning cheers

cheers kieran

A bag of sawdust?

at least thats the eco friendly way of doing it

looks lke the oil filler cap is crap, replace that as it looks to be blowing the seal ( i know a joke about that!)

Maybe damage to the glow plug/fuel lines leaking through the threads?

:arrow:

i had the same problem after landy rally and i had the filler cap checked out by the garage man and he said it was a perfect fit and even tightened it up so it was a better fit,

How's your compression? Maybe a blockage/hairline crack somewhere causing a blowback?

What's that goo in pic 2, running down the back of the block? Diesel? Water? Marmite?

How's the water temp?

all big words for me

the gue in pic 2 im pretty sure is diesel coming from the injector, i think the pressure is high in the engine causing the oil to come out the filler cap but i dont know why the pressure would be high

cheers kieran

What's this alien stuff known as d i e s e l ? Apparently one burns oil to power the engine! Strange concept, my Rangie wouldn't like that. Then again my Range Rover doesn't have Marmite trickling from its injections.

As for the price of it compared to good ol' combustable volatile petrol, what's that all about? You're 'aving a giraffe mate.

And talking of animals, we'll have less of the smut on here - "blowing seals" and "blowbacks" indeed, it's completely out of order ... much like your engine eh Keiran?

The pressure could be high for a number of reasons, my humble offerings;

Could be a damaged head gasket or a blockage ( a shim dropped in mine) in the head/block (fingers crossed) or dare I say it (I speak from personal experience) a hairline crack in the head.

How's the water temp in the system?

Fingers crossed!

kieran wrote:

... i think the pressure is high in the engine causing the oil to come out the filler cap but i dont know why the pressure would be high

Usual suspect on 200tdi's is worn piston linings that allows some of the compression pressure to work its way down into the sump and then back up via the breathers into the rocker box and out through the filler cap...

HOWEVER, your isnt doing this... or wasnt the last time I saw it. Id therefore tend to think the same as Mark, Head Gasket (somewhere).

For piece of mind, if I where you Id buy a haynes manual and whip the head off, replace the gasket (with a 3 holed one) and go from there. You and your dad could have it off and on again in a day. If you buy a gasket though, buy a genuine LR one / OE one, not a cheap pattern piece.

If you decide to tackle it, when you get the head off, be very careful when you put the head down, lay it on its side because its all too easy to damage the injector tips that protrude a few mm below the flat head bottom. Apart from that, its an easy job, so long as your methodical and stick to the Haynes manual.

Quote :

whip the head off

Quote :

3 holed one

Quote :

your dad could have it off

Quote :

you get the head off

Quote :

put the head down, lay it on its side

Quote :

tips that protrude a few mm below the flat head bottom

I warned you - totally obscene. Viewing such pornagraphic material Mary Whitehouse and Lord Longford would be turing over in their graves (probably together by all accounts). Oooooo - politics and smut!

hello,
cheers john, mark, steve and Tomish

i have written down all ideas given and i will take the easy option first and that is check all of the breathers and tighten up the filler cap, i have just been to the garage and checked that i knew what i am doing ( i didnt but do now ) if this doesnt solve the problem i will have to take the next step up and read the instruction haynes manual, just hope tomorrow morning is sunny, i some how doubt it but still.

cheers for the input tom


ill keep you all informed

cheers kieran

Kieran, have ye read the reply on the bofa forum?
or too blinded by a zip?

Ill remove it you know.

cheers bill, i had forgotton i had posted that

i think the post man is lost with my stickers your sending?


KEEP THE ZIP, all hail king of the zip :queen:

Same here Kieran, haven't received the sticker yet you were sending me.

it went off in first class post on wednesday, interesting i always thought first class ment next day, i just had to collect moneys off all the team to put in the entry form, sorry about the wait
its on the way tom

cheers kieran

kieran wrote:

... i will take the easy option first and that is check all of the breathers and tighten up the filler cap...

Kieren,
Checking that the breather pipes are tight is worthwhile... Wont solve your problem, but worthwhile! Making the cap fit tighter is like counting down from 20 to detination rather than 10! Or like sticking your head in the sand and ignoring the problem.


!!! Porn alert Tom !!!

Some how your rocker is becoming pressurized...

!!! End of Porn alert Tom !!!

...and that pressure is naturally finding the easiest way back to 0 bar. The oil filler cap is not supposed to be a pressure valve or retainer (like your water cap), its merely there to allow you to put oil in and stop the stuff spitting out as the rocker goes round and round. The last time I checked that cap fitted just fine.

You have the signs of a slightly sick engine. Dont ignore it or it will get expensive!


Just another thought... Before you put off whipping the head off a bit longer, it may be worthwhile checking your valve stem seals and valve seats. These (stem seals) are cheap replaceable items. If they are worn then you'll be down on compression, performance wont be as good as it could be and you could pressurize the rocker!

Unfortunately for you, checking above needs the head off!! So now you have 2 reasons to change the HG!!

Rather that take the head off you could opt to get the engine pressure and compression tested (then you dont need the head off). HOWEVER, I wouldn't. WHY... Because unless your engine is completely knackered (which yours isnt) the results are very hit an miss. On two occasions Ive had 200 Tdi's tested (by different garages) and both times been told the engines were fine. One head gasket failed spectacularly 15 miles from a road two weeks later - that wasnt fun!

Warn seals has merit - dont know why I didnt think of it earlier.

Quote :

(stem seals)

where are they, and how do i check them

cheers kieran

I knew that question would come...

Easy answer is read the Haynes manual - much better description than I can give! However, basic cylinder head operation as below.

...bear with me...
Cylinder head sits ontop of pistons to create 0.625L cylinder, in the bottom of which is a piston which moves up and compresses the air & fuel.

...Now...
On the 200Tdi (and 300Tdi for that matter) there are two valves per cylinder.
On the up-stroke of the piston the exhaust valve is shut to allow the upward moving piston compress the air and fuel.

Clearly in order to compress air and fuel, both ingredients need to be allowed into the piston. Thats where the inlet valve comes in. At the point when the piston is neither going up or down (at the bottom of its stroke) the inlet valve opens. Air is let in and then closes. At this point you have clean/fresh air in the piston at the beginning of the up-stroke the injector fires to get the fuel in.

As the piston approaches TDC (Top Dead Centre) there should be a big bang, the piston is forced back down from whence it came and the exhuast valve opens.

...So... basically the piston goes up and down and at the right point in time the valves open and close.

The valve looks like an upside down mushroom. The valve stem is like the mushroom stalk and the flat circular bit the valve. Around the mushroom stalk are the valve stem seals . These make the valve open and close in exactly the correct position. If they are warn you'll get play and things start to go a bit tits up.


How do you check them??? Basically you have to completely strip your head down... rocker cover off, rocker shaft out, shaft guides out (take note where they come from and replace in the same place). Then you can get to them... The head needs to come off though so you can get the valves out. Its also a lot easier to strip it on a bench.

Like most things at this depth... if you think you have to check them... replace them - the cost of labour far out weights the cost of the parts.

Clear as mud now Im sure! Like I said, read the Haynes, it has pictures too.

cheers john, hope it doesnt come to that with all this fun snow and windy weather coming

cheers kieran