its time, bulkhead

there sir, done my home work,

erm where was i
ahh yes
done some more welding and burnt my leg/finger so its going well,

if you have a blade fuse block going spare then yes i will have it off you
im still interested in that wheel arch you mentioned at billing

the welding is set to be complete soon, predicted about saturday or sunday then i can play with paint and position pinky where its going to be taken apart and plan and then build the platform for the gear box to sit on to change the crank seal,

could anyone suggest what seal would be best to use? a paddocks one or a proper land rover genuine one?

cheers kieran

Quote :

there sir, done my home work

That's the poster we used to have in the garage...

Defo Genuine LR matey!! Price difference is nowt when you take into consideration the work involved to change the b***er

It should come with a plastic doobery stuck inside it which makes it a bit easier to fit. If theres a groove worn into the collar on the crank just whack it in to a slightly different level so its running on a fresh bit of metal

Top pic above btw.........................

cheers stu ill get one ordered,

the welding is progressing well, heres some i did just needs angle grinding down to look a little neater, its been soooo hot today

i even managed to set the carpet glue on fire inside the footwell



cheers dad for showing me how
a couple more plates and things should be fine and dandy

10/10 for the homework son.

hello,
we have spent all day welding, grinding, buying new flux wire, more welding more grinding and just abit moe welding and getting sun fried, but its all good fun :face:

today we have successfully got past the half way point in the welding after uncovering lots more bits needing doing

at one point we even got so organised as in dad cut the plates, marc welded them, i grinded them, amanda sat there and gave advice on how things should be done and mum prepared food for us see a team effort

heres some piccys of some of the work and whats still left to do...





fortunatly this bulkhead only has rust issues in the footwells and it in near perfect condition up top around the door hinges and vents ( the parts that are rooted on mine ) these bits are very trickey for us with our equipment to repair we may have a go when its taken out then sell it on ebay and try to get about £70 for it that being the amount the betterish condition one costed
if nothing else i bet itll be worth a penny or two in scrap value?

cheers the burnt kieran

most of the holes now patched up, weve stopped for the day as its just too hot :suspect: southeners bringing their weather here

after talking to dom at billing i decided to follow his advice and borrow next doors jet wash and clean as much of pinky underneath as i could without getting their jet wash dirty

cheers kieran

Whats the news then Kieran?? Hows she looking??? :?:

Aye, hows Amanda looking 'K'????

How you managing to weld rust to air?

Tom Mc wrote:

How you managing to weld rust to air?

Oh, that's easy ... and apparently good for MoT's

Usually involves tubes of no more nails, copies of the sun and thick black underseal does it not????

The Lamb Chops wrote:

Usually involves tubes of no more nails, copies of the sun and thick black underseal does it not????

Focus own brand "flexible gap filler", Wharfedale Times and hammerite, actually....

I did find that if you run the plasma cutter over the rusty patches on a low current setting, it looks just like it's been mig welded.... only did that in a couple of places myself ... usually just around the filler/newspaper sections

Tile grout also covers a multitude of welding sinscockups.

hello,
im about a week behind shedule due to various commitments and more welding than origionally planned. but things are now back on the move.

ive had a very productive day today , ive completly finnished the welding and its now ready for the ( hopefully ) final ear blasting session with the angle grinder. ive made a big start in disecting the wiring most of which is eye wateringly scarey, theres alot of burnt wires there and alot of live feeds still with the metal connector heads also theres not much metal stopping the water getting in every time it rains, so what ive done...

>finnished welding the floor pans,
>made a start on rust proofing and painting round the vents,
> taken out the dash board and swapped all the wiring and dials ( speedo might now have 6 thousand less miles on it than it did ) but the origional speedo had one light working, with one snapped off and it was going rusty plus the one that was in the new dash board had a smiths speedo in it ( spost to be posh news to me )
> made a start on labelling wires and removing old dash board, to find a suprising amount of rust behind the passenger section ( there is vertually nothing holding the door wind catch on )
>and removed the battery to have a look inside the battery box and weld up the big hole that a nice branch made quite a while back, i will be putting a couple of drain holes in the bottom to stop the formation of the 3" deep layer of mud that i found in the bottom of the battery box.
> made an interesting discovery that means i can have more speakers attached to my main tape player i might attach som in the rear some where.
heres some pictures....


the answe to toms welding metal to air, the solution is simple more metal, more weld more hammering new panels into shape i loved bashing the panels into shape,

yes tom i know the welds dont look too neat but with a little more ginding they should look just the part, im tempted to source some checker plate and plate all of it in that so when off-road i can do away with the carpets


FAO bling if you look carefully here and just in front of the snorkel you can see a white dot, that is a 4chas sticker still perfectly coloured


here you can see what i would class as a relief as most of the cruddy electrics are gone i would also like to extend my thanks to andy bloke for making that switch panel so good, theres very few wires to disconect and they are all neat! THANKS!! its a shame i need a slightly bigger panel because that one is fantastic!!!! all of team monstar and especially me owe you mant beers for that,


the battery box full of crud and the wires neatly wrapped up and labeled up with another fine display of andyblokes wiring, once again, thanks!

the dash board coming apart to reveal this ...

there was a little plastic cover that ive never been able to get off to assess the rust, so today i got out the hammer and reshaped the screw to the screw driver which then snapped the head off the screw, the cover came off then the rest of the screw dropped out. i then took the end of the dash board off to see what the rest of it was like, finding out that theres vertually nothing holding on the door catch that stops the wind taking it round, and thats at some point some cheeky bugger had glued a plastic patch over a rust hole if you look carefully in the top left corner of the rust you will see a plastic cover nect to the window hinge, cheeky beggers

it rained all day meaning i got soaked,
good night pinky, all tucked in, how cute ...

theres no door seals thats why the plastic cover, one of them fell apart when i took it off it was new 18 months ago, you guessed it from paddocks

cheers kieran

Quite a project - fair play for tackling it. Alternatively, do like me and spend £800 and get a first class Rangie that has just sailed through its MOT. Makes yer puke eh?

very good deal you got there and a fantastic drive but for me it will be well worth the effort, plus a 90 goes everywhere off-road and when i get the next project under way it should go at decent road speeds at decent feul economy but im afriad that may not be this side of the rally

decent road speeds at decent feul economy

What, a large bungee you can hook onto the bumper of a rep's Vectra?

perhaps better air flow into engine, more road friendly tyres, and then a good clean out of the engine top get everything fresh and proper again,

what differance would a bigger intercooler make?

cheers kieran

kieran wrote:

perhaps better air flow into engine

You removing the vacuum cleaner hose?

Quote :

what differance would a bigger intercooler make?

If the engine is in decent condition, you'll get more power. If the engine's not so good, you'll end up with more gas blowing past the piston rings and pressurising the rest of the engine, more smoke and oil in the air intake, and risk stressing things.
Also bear in mind that if you do get more power out of the engine, the whole transmission system needs to be able to cope with it. Use decent oil and tape a strong magnet to the filter, and look after the turbo as the turbine and bearings will take more abuse.

I seem to remember you saying there was lots of gunk in your breather pipes .... that means there will be lots of gunk inyour intercooler, too. Take it out and clean it.

Jon can probably give you more advice (and prices).

Oh, invest in a pressure gauge before you start playing with the intake system!

vacuum pipes gone, fantastic idea for off-roading but not so clever for on road, i think ill be investing in a ram head for the snorkel at some point.

Could be worse mate!!!

you fitting a new chassy ?

i dont fancy that job just yet

Thats the missus' 90! Had a sympathetic rebuild last year as the moo moo poo saw the chassis and bulkhead off

Im fed up of doing them now! Bulkhead is the worst job, chassis is a bit of pi$$ after doing a few of them!

Couple more....