its time, bulkhead

A spare chassis lying around - every home should have one!

kieran wrote:

perhaps better air flow into engine, more road friendly tyres, and then a good clean out of the engine top get everything fresh and proper again,

what differance would a bigger intercooler make?

cheers kieran

A bigger intercooler on its own wont make the slightest difference!! Combine it with a tweak on the fuel pump and your away.

Things to consdier though... On an old engine, you will (if you go to far with the tweaking) reduce engine life as the temps begin to creep up quickly.

If you do get a new cooler, dont buy the full width ones - that will kill your engine the first time you sink it in mud and then dont fully clean the rad. Instead get a performance drop in unit - I think ours are £252+Vat. there are only 2 or 3 units available that I would replace mine with, otherwise stick with standard. If you didnt want ours I could point you in the other two's direction...

The things that will make the biggest difference to get up and go are:
1. Intercooler & fuel pump mod
2. Remove one of the silencers for a straight through pipe.
3. More road friendly tires

Things that are a waste of money (for a 200tdi)
a)silicone hoses
b)K&N
c)Hiclone thingy's
d)ram head's for snorkels

Then there's the old addage - you dont get out for nowt!! Certainly true in the performance arena...

TD5's & TDV6's rock - play with the ecu and make 'em go like stink!!

VentureOverland wrote:

TD5's & TDV6's rock - play with the ecu and make 'em go like stink!!

OOOOOOOOH Yes!!!!

Quote :

TD5's & TDV6's rock - play with the ecu and make 'em go like stink!!

am i right im thinking theyve got less low down power, or does it just seem that way when your driving them?

200tdi's rock
mainly because there cheaper to fix and no computery which craft

although i did like nats 300tdi,

bloody rain i was just getting in a high mood finnishing the very last bit of grinding and welding then the heavons opened

VentureOverland wrote:

A bigger intercooler on its own wont make the slightest difference!!

Not completely true (unless you've got EFI with MAP and MAT sensors).

To make a _significant_ difference, you need to increase the fuelling, too, which will drive temps up quickly and stress gaskets and movey bits.

Cooler intake air ALWAYS makes a difference. If a bigger cooler didn't make a difference, they wouldn't bother with a small one either.

Extra intercooling without changes to the fuelling will make most difference during accelleration only, when the mechanical fuel reg drops more fuel in based on pedal position -- if putting your foot down makes black smoke, cooler intake air will make it a more efficient burn without burning more fuel.

If you wondered why the engine's more lively in winter, it's because the colder air works better. If you're not messing with the fuelling, you can safely drop the charge temperature to almost freezing point ... but ambient is usually easier. Try taping the wired probe from a cheap in/out thermometer to the outlet tank on the intercooler and see how hot it gets on a long uphil 3rd run. If it's above ambient (unless your turbo's broken or it's snowing, it will be), you can do better.

Spot on Andy! Top of the class! :afro:

The Lamb Chops wrote:

Spot on Andy! Top of the class! :afro:

Actually they threw me out. Theory okay, maths terrible.

Tell me about it.............

as i cant affoard it for now ill steer clear

today ive had a very "destuctive" day with lots of help from sam fox himself ...



took a fair few parts off and made quite a mess of the garden

heres some pictures, ...





first real problem ive encountered is ive no idea how to take off the wings any one have any ideas?

cheers kieran

I don't think you stripped that down, I think it just blew up!!

I just love the way everyone else is checking they've got the right maps, etc,etc for the rally, and you're there stripping your land rover down!! :!:

Good luck with it, just remember, all the bolts you take out need to go back at the end!!!

All the best,
Nat

PS - love the muddy water marks on the bulkhead behind the dash where the water comes through the vents!!

hello,
we had a interesting turn of events today, as it started to rain we went to paddocks to get some bits and lenny's wheel bearing went ( bad noise and vibrations )
got back and mums tyre was flat so captin keith pulled out the nail and we changed it,

the bulkhead got some more bolts taken off so theres only 1 left holding it on and thats not going to be easy to get off, other than that it can come off, then the crabk seal can be concentrated on
we made the choice to hold off on buying a clutch for the simple reason that mines only done 16 - 20,000 anyway at the very most so we will give it a good look over when it comes out.

also set fire to my overalls

we can only hope for some sun tomorrow

cheers kieran

andybloke wrote:

VentureOverland wrote:

A bigger intercooler on its own wont make the slightest difference!!

Not completely true (unless you've got EFI with MAP and MAT sensors).

To make a _significant_ difference, you need to increase the fuelling, too, which will drive temps up quickly and stress gaskets and movey bits.

Cooler intake air ALWAYS makes a difference. If a bigger cooler didn't make a difference, they wouldn't bother with a small one either.

Extra intercooling without changes to the fuelling will make most difference during accelleration only, when the mechanical fuel reg drops more fuel in based on pedal position -- if putting your foot down makes black smoke, cooler intake air will make it a more efficient burn without burning more fuel.

If you wondered why the engine's more lively in winter, it's because the colder air works better. If you're not messing with the fuelling, you can safely drop the charge temperature to almost freezing point ... but ambient is usually easier. Try taping the wired probe from a cheap in/out thermometer to the outlet tank on the intercooler and see how hot it gets on a long uphil 3rd run. If it's above ambient (unless your turbo's broken or it's snowing, it will be), you can do better.

I cant knock the theory - its spot on... but practically...

Yes, under the right, cool & damp conditions you will feel a difference, but you feel that weather you have a new cooler or not. You will not feel the difference between new and old any more that you feel between old and old!

Big, full width intercoolers make about 7bhp more power than a standard width performance unit. Its only an un-educated person though that would choose to fit one because of the reduction in cooling through the rad and also the inability to clean the rad properly when you give the landy a mud bath.

The physical dimensions of a cooler are not as important as people may think. Cooling surface area however is important, but as always its a trade off between performance and reliability.

We try very hard NOT to sell the full width coolers because of the adverse issues people can and do find themselves with - cooling, cleaning - pipe adjustments etc etc.

hello,
todays destruction, sorry i mean progress went well, we got the old bulk headout and the new one is looking shineyer than it did,
i am slightly very irritated with myself as i was on the phone to a friend looking for some advice on the crank seal, when he said "why didnt you say? i have a 3 year old TD5 shiney bulkhead sat round the back of my work shop that you could have had for free" such a shame,
if anyone is thinking of a bulkhead change then give me a pm soon as you can and this bulkhead is yours for free!! on has a slight crease but nothing major and no rust at all,

it looks more like a fair ground ride than a landy now, i get butterflys everytime i come on this forum as it reminds me i only have 4 weeks ...

it looks and feels like it will never go back togather and work, strange how there made isnt it




thanks from all of ...

Only 1 thing that I can think of saying to you.

4WEEKS

Well its 8.30pm and I'm thinking of opening up a garage or at least a cafe !!

It is going dark and you can't move for vehicles, high lift jacks, welding equipment, toolboxes etc

I'm sure we used to have a front garden once upon a time.

We seem to have a 90 a disco and a frontera all under repair !

Anyone for another cuppa !!

Frontera, fixed new sump drain plug installed and freshly painted sump guard and steering guard, and kieran is still having his land rover being welded on, have given up on lenny for today :alien:

I had a busy day working on the Rangie too - replacing the pathetic interior lights with higher wattage Hella jobbies.

Almost got my hands dirty at one stage when topping up the oil, but fortunately got away with it.

This Range Rover is succccchhhhh hard work!

too right tom, i hope you had your latex gloves on to protect those polished finger nails to fit with the polished mahogany steering wheel

today, i got a little more of the new bulkhead painted, hopefully by tomorrow that should be fully painted in black and grey,
i seemed to spend tooooooooo long sorting out my student accomodation for two days after the rally,
then i got a little painting done, then i set my concentration onto lenny as its wheel bearing went on saturday, opened it up and the, what was grease was like mudwith bits of metal fileings floating around in it and some bearings, thats too be finnished tomorrow as steve the welder turned up in his beast of a range rover and i spent the rest of the night untill 10pm, either watching his skilfull welds doing some sanding on the bulkhead or cutting some plates to be welded,

we are just making a plan in our heads for the crank seal, we are thinking engine lift and slide the gear box back witht he engine lift or lift the engine up or slide it forward
any opinions?

cheers kieran

engine up and forward.

remove rad fixings and engine mounts. Lift and pull forward to gain access.

Still trying to catch up on all these posts that have been left in the last week....think I need to log on more often...

kieran wrote:

FAO bling if you look carefully here and just in front of the snorkel you can see a white dot, that is a 4chas sticker still perfectly coloured


cheers kieran

That's my Cameron...think he was enjoying going about puting stickers on things - or people..Especially people (or more precisly women, according to what Manda was saying he was up to - might as well start them young!)

Glad to see it's still there K

D

VentureOverland wrote:

engine up and forward.

remove rad fixings and engine mounts. Lift and pull forward to gain access.

Id have to disagree there! If the bulkhead and floor are already out its much easier to just slip the 'box back a bit to do a crankseal. 2 props off, hbrake cable and chassis crossmember and its out.

FAO BLING
it'll stay on probley still be on in years to come underneath some sort of sticker

................................................................................................................

right, we have now come up with what we are going to do with the crank shaft seal as the garage quoted £300 to replace>>>thats not an option<<<

so ill give it a good clean up, then have another closer look. i spent a while speaking to the garage man who said " split of the transfer box then slide the gear box back "

every one we asked has either said " engine forward" "gear box dropped or slid" or " YOUR MAD "

its cheaper to buy an engine lift than to pay a garage so that makes it either engine forward / up abit or gear box back and split off transer box which wont require an engine lift, just a couple of big lads

as my welding work and pretty much all else was rained off today i managed to get lenny's wheel bearing changed and am ready to do the other side. bulkhead is getting more and more paint so its not far from being done ,
we have written our next list for paddocks tomorrow

i think i under estimated how bigger job this would be for us as most people i spoke to are quite expirienced and say just whip this, this and this off and you will be fine

im hoping to get the crank shaft done by thursday night so i can put the newerish bulkhead on early next week and plum/wire most of it up so it'll get me to landy jumble, i spose i had better sort the oil leaks in the rear hubs that seem to be the exact same as andyblokes leaks


wish us luck

cheers kieran

IF you're careful, and understand the point of balance of the gearbox and trannny box bolted together (IE its going to want to turn as soon as its off the bellhousing) then it is possible to do the job with 2x trolley jacks and a bottle jack. Bottle jack under the rear of the engine to stop it from dropping arse down and to aid realignment, one trolley jack under the gearbox and one supporting the transfer box enabling it to be drawn back off the engine. It is a lot easier with the tranny box removed, and its very little work to remove the tbox (Good oppertunity to change the input seal and intermediate gear cross shaft 'o' rings while its out). Up to you really, I used to do a defender clutch in about 2 1/2 hours using this method on my own on site after doing a few, just be very careful, as the gearbox is a tad on the heavy side.......Disco 1 and 2 can be done the same way by the way.

The Lamb Chops wrote:

VentureOverland wrote:

engine up and forward.

remove rad fixings and engine mounts. Lift and pull forward to gain access.

Id have to disagree there! If the bulkhead and floor are already out its much easier to just slip the 'box back a bit to do a crankseal. 2 props off, hbrake cable and chassis crossmember and its out.

Good point Lamby! Id forgotten it was already in bits!